Alexandra Forest - a walking tour to discover hidden colonial and Malay history

Singapore might be a city state, but it is one of the greenest cities I've ever seen. Parks and plants are everywhere, keeping the place liveable and pleasant. At first glance even Singapore greenery seems overly developed, pruned and blown clean by the omnipresent leaf blowers. What I really love about this place are the small pockets of wilderness tucked in unexpected corners. You can get lost in the tiniest of patch of jungle, and if you go around in circles, plodding your way through mud, overhanging branches and scattered foliage, you can imagine yourself in a proper rainforest. Especially when, not unlikely at all, it also starts to rain.

The crane in the distance gives away we are still in central Singapore

Today I want to bring you to a small patch of forest at a surprisingly central location: Alexandra Forest. Located, less surprisingly, near Alexandra Road. It is easily accessed from the rail corridor, the old KTM (Kereta Api Malaysia) railway from Tanjong Pagar to Malaysia that has been made into a walking trail since it was abandoned in 2010. Along the rail corridor, just after you pass under Alexandra Road at the Gilman flyover, sits a small mosque: Masjid Hang Jebat. It can be reached via the rail corridor or by car, and next to the mosque is the easiest way to enter Alexandra Forest. But before we enter, let's take a small step back. Looking around, you don't feel in Singapore anymore, but rather as if the old railway mysteriously transported you to Malaysia. Why is there a mosque here?

Masjid Hang Jebat seen from the rail corridor

A car park is available in front of the mosque

This area right next to Alexandra Hospital used to be part of the Alexandra Barracks and Wessex Estate, where the British military stayed in colonial times. In Alexandra Park you can still see the officers houses, and as we will see later there are also some military houses left around here as well, that housed army personnel and hospital staff. This mosque was built in 1952 for the Malay regiments that stayed nearby. It was named after Hang Jebat, a legendary Malay warrior from the Melaka era. The warrior Hang Jebat is mostly known for his defiance of unjust authority, and rebellion against the Sultan, making him an interesting choice for a mosque serving a British Malay regiment. Hang Jebat wasn't a simple troublemaker though, he is known to have said 'a kind king is a king to obey, and a cruel king is one to fight against.' It is one of few 'kampong style' mosques remaining in Singapore, and therefore definitely worth a look.

You can enter Alexandra Forest through a hidden trail at the side of the mosque

Anyway... I digress. The entrance to the forest is a little overgrown, but soon a path clears and you can walk around at your leisure. Just follows the paths, and try to get lost. There isn't really a set route to follow, paths criss-cross the area quite randomly, so I recommend keeping an eye on google maps to help find your way back out. In the middle of the area is a small pond, that you can hike around if you don't mind getting your feet dirty and brushing your way through some undergrowth here and there.

Alexandra bricks

In the forest here you might come across old bricks from Alexandra Brickworks, easily recognised by the name stamped on them. Alexandra Brickworks was founded in 1899 nearby in Pasir Panjang, and was the first to have modern equipment and a continuous operation to bake bricks. They used clay from the surrounding hills, which would be one of many reasons Singapore is quite a bit flatter than it used to be. It continued to operate until 1972, and many of the famous 20th century colonial buildings were made with their bricks.

At some point you will reach the other side - after all, this is a mini forest, where there is a clearing next to the AYE. A bit noisy, but still a nice open space to enjoy.

With no-one around, this is a good place for a dog to have a run

After your walk, it is time for a break. Some people find it awkward to visit religious places that aren't their own, but in my experiences, most of them actively welcome outside guests. As does Masjid Hang Jebat. For visitors it has a 'harmony trail' on its premises, a corridor that provides information about Islam and aims to 'bring about a great understanding of Islam and Muslims amongst the multi and multi-religious society of Singapore'. If this has not yet convinced you to visit, the harmony trail leads to a small self-serve cafe with seating, looking out over some greenery and the corridor. You can help yourself to drinks and put money in the honesty box, or for those like me that don't carry cash, there is a QR code.

Learn more about islam at the harmony trail

The self serve cafe behind the mosque

Water for all

Another option is to flop down on one of the benches outside along the green corridor, where the mosque provides watering points, aptly named 'water for all'. This is also the perfect spot if you have brought your dog, as some Muslims consider dogs haram, unclean, so better not to bring them into the mosque.

If you feel rested enough, you can have a stroll up Jalan Hang Jebat. It has a number of rows of colonial terraced housed, left over from the military barracks, that have been preserved and are rented out by the government. Jalan Hang Jebat is shaded by fabulous old raintrees, making for a beautiful dappled atmosphere.

Going for a hike around the Hang Jebat area will allow you a lovely short walking tour showcasing both Singapore colonial and Malay history, and with a good does of jungle added in!